An enormous range of walking boots are now available. As well as heavy, robust boots for rugged conditions, there are lighter boots for summer walking, and though traditional leather uppers remain popular, lighter, "breathable" waterproof fabrics are also used. Boots are increasingly available to suit different sorts of feet, in narrow and wide, and men's and women's fittings. Choosing the correct footwear for walking is essential. Over specifying your footwear can lead to problems as serious as under specifying so getting the balance right is essential. Here is a guide to help you select the best walking boots or shoes for your needs:
Sandals- ideal for resting your feet at camp or crossing a river where you do not want to get your main boots wet. They may also be used in warm weather on easy low level walks as they allow excellent ventilation. If you plan on using them on walks look for good support, strong straps and a good moulded grip on the sole.
Trail running shoes - These are running trainers with special grip and extra padding to support the demands of trail running. They can too like sandals be used at camp as a lighter weight footwear than your normal boots.
Hiking shoes - These should be considered the minimum footwear requirement for the serious hiker. Ideal for well maintained low level walks, these offer a lightweight alternative to hiking boots. Their increased support will also help on longer or even multi-day hikes. They are generally made out of slightly tougher leather or a combination of tougher synthetic materials and leather parts. The sole and the general construction are less flexible and give increased support to your ankle and bridge. The cut reaches over the ankle which may cause discomfort if you are not used to having your footwear reach that high. These boots generally require some breaking in.
Walking boots - These look like what you would imagine walking boots to look like. These are the boots intended for less smooth trails and light off trail terrains. Their increased support will also help on longer or even multi-day hikes. They are generally made out of slightly tougher leather or a combination of tougher synthetic materials and leather parts. The sole and the general construction are less flexible and give increased support to your ankle and bridge. The cut reaches over the ankle which may cause discomfort if you are not used to having your footwear reach that high. These boots generally require some breaking in.
Rough Terrain hiking boots - These boots have a more technical construction with the use of toe caps, cemented out soles, moulded mid soles and synthetic linings. Inner membranes often feature Gore-Text or other multi-purpose materials. Some variants are compatible with crampons for mountaineering purposes. The constructions of these boots are intended to give maximum support and shock absorption while remaining water resistant/proof and breathable. The increased weight and stiffness of these boots require getting used to and training.
Mountaineering boots - These are the boots that you would use to climb
Mount Everest
. If you need this level of boot, you do not need advice on how to select them and if you do don't do it!
Flexibility
A boot's front to back flexibility determines the ease with which the boot bends with the foot during each step, and the amount of flex Required or desired is very much down to personal preference. It is certainly true that a softer boot allows a more natural walking action, though stiffer models often introduce some curvature to the sole to compensate for the rigidity and remove the flat-spot effect. The need for good lateral stiffness is greater on rough terrain (or when traversing a slope). A laterally stiff boot allows the foot to remain flat, leaving the ankle aligned correctly beneath the leg, so giving better support and reducing the stress on joints.
Overall, boots for hill walking and trekking should flex fairly easily toe to heel but remain stiff from side to side. For winter mountaineering or extended crampon use though, boots that are stiffer or rigid toe to heel are necessary. Our flexibility scale rates models from one to six, with six being a rigid sole.
Waterproof & Breatheable Linings
To make boots more water resistant or waterproof they may be lined with a waterproof/breathable membrane such as Sympatex, Gore-Tex, ClimaDry, or Air8. The membrane lining or bootie will be seam-sealed and positioned between the outer and an inner lining to protected it from scuffing and abrasion damage. Waterproof linings are frequently used on fabric boots to improve wet weather performance. However, waterproof/breathable linings work best in cold dry conditions. In continuously wet weather the boots outer and padding can become saturated, impairing the breathability of the lining and making condensation more likely. For really wet conditions, therefore, non membrane-lined models may be more suitable.
To protect your trousers and socks from getting wet, consider overtrousers and/or gaiters. The former are light waterproof trousers, the latter knee-high waterproof leggings that button or tie up and attach to the boot. Both have their champions, but both can be difficult to put on and take off, and neither will keep you dry if you choose to wade through a river.
Shock Absorption
Many boots and shoes have a second midsole or dual density outsole designed to absorb trail shock. This jarring can lead to fatigue, sore feet and, in extreme cases, tendonitis and joint injury. Dual density soles use a softer rubber for shock absorption and a hard, more durable rubber for the tread. Shock absorption in lighter models is often constructed from wedges of ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA) or polyurethane (PU). Stiffer mountaineering and four season boots will often use a shock-absorbing insert located in the harder outer sole. To add extra protection, separate Sorbothane inserts or footbeds can be used in place of the existing footbed. Some footbed systems will also position and hold the foot more accurately within the boot, allowing the foot's own natural absorption pads to work more effectively.
Boot Construction
The manufacture of modern walking boots represents a unique blend of traditional boot making skills and modern technology. Whilst technology continues to provide a variety of new materials which aid the development of modern footwear, it is the boot maker's skills that differentiate quality boots from cheaper boots.
Lasting - Quality walking boots are built around a shaped model foot known as a "last". The quality of the lasting, and the time that each upper spends on the last, is crucial in giving boots their shape and fit. Some manufacturers like Contour have lasts that are made to specifically suit the British foot. They also have specific lasts made to suit both mens and womens feet. The womens lasts reflecting the generally more slender female foot and are slimmer in the mid foot and heel areas and the mens being a slightly wider and greater volume lasts.
Not only do lasts vary between male and female foot but they also vary radically by activity. For example a rock climbing shoe last will seek to harness the foot in a way that will deliver maximum power and sensitivity for climbing, whereas a light walking boot will be sprung (curved underfoot) to provide a more natural walking action and a mountaineering last will have a flatter profile to suit use with crampons etc.
Soles -An effective tread is essential for safe, secure travel. Most serious slips occur when traversing or descending. As well as a deep tread, two features that improve downhill security are the heel breast (the step across the arch) and the rear heel block. Many high performance boots now feature a square cut heel with deep tread pattern, or rows of teeth on the heel. Rounded heel designs without a deep tread design are dangerous on steep ground.
Walking boot soles - These are soles that generally have a quite open tread pattern to allow for natural cleaning and avoid clogging in muddy terrain. The cleat pattern is usually relatively shallow to ensure that the boots are as lightweight as possible. The rubber will be a mix that combines good cushioning with good wear properties. They will often also feature cushioning and impact protection zones, built into the sole to keep the boots comfortable and to minimise jarring when walking.
Hiking Boots - These soles generally have a deeper cleat pattern, with angled cleats that are shaped to give good grip in ascent, descent or when traversing across steep hillsides. They will generally have a greater section of rubber around the perimeter of the sole for grip on rocky sections combined with more open cleating within the sole to allow natural cleaning and anti-clogging. Again they will often feature dual density rubber, PU or EVA cushioning sections.
Midsoles - The midsole, sandwiched between the sole and the upper, is the hidden component in walking boot manufacture. In many ways it is the engine room of a boot and one of the most important components. Because it is hidden, some less reputable manufacturers (we do not stock these brands) make great compromises in the midsole in order to make the boot more instantly comfortable and cheaper. This is a short cut in production that will later be paid for in the performance of the boot .The choice of midsole should be dictated by the end-use requirements of the boot. Midsoles are graded to offer differential flex characteristics down the length of the boot whilst giving maximum lateral support. They should also be graded by size to ensure constant performance characteristics in each boot size. The stiffness of the midsole is a critical factor if you plan to use crampons with your boots.
Boot Construction
Selection of the right grade of high quality leather to meet the end use requirements of the boot is an essential and highly specialist skill. The origin of the hides, the age, rearing and care of the beast and the subsequent tanning process are all critical elements which will affect the finished boot. Amongst the leathers commonly used are.
Calf Leather
A high quality leather usually of around 2.4mm to 2.6mm in thickness, ideal for lighter weight hillwalking boots, which require less breaking-in.
Sherpa Leather
A 2.7mm - 2.9mm leather. The extra thickness and durability of this leather is perfectly suited to stronger hill and mountain walking boots, where extra support and resistance to scuffing is important.
NubuckLeather
Here, the outer surface of the leather has a finely sanded, texturised finish, which gives the boot an added appeal. Nubuck leathers will give similar performance as traditional leather, although the sanded and texturised surface finish will change over time. Nubuck is a quality leather and should not be confused with suede.
Crost Leather
Crosta leather is an Italian term for a cut leather. This is in reality a very rugged version of suede. To improve its water resistance, it is commonly treated with a water resistant treatment or backed with a water resistant liner.
Reversed Anfibio Leather
This is premier leather frequently used at 3.0mm -3.6mm thickness. Reversed Anfibio is primarily used on full mountain boots where maximum strength, support and abrasion resistance is Required. These leathers may be used with the tanned surface out or reversed with the textured side out and the tanned surface inside. Reversing the leather protects the hide's best surface from scuffing and abrasion, which improves durability and water resistance. Reversed Anfibio is expensive, prime quality leather and should not be confused with Suede or Crosta leathers.
Fitting
When laced, the boot should hold firmly around your entire foot without it feeling too cramped, your heel should not move, and your big toe should not be pressing against the uppers.
Always try your hiking boots with your walking socks. Using the right socks will make all the difference to foot comfort. Good socks will cushion and protect your feet, helping to keep them dry and blister free. The general recommendation is the combination of a thin, wicking, smooth-knit liner sock (which moves moisture away from the skin and provides next-to-skin comfort) underneath a well fitting, wool rich cushion-loop sock (which provides the padding and cushioning). Avoid socks containing cotton they sock up moisture and hold it next to the skin decreasing comfort and increasing the chance of blisters.
Always try on both boots - most people have slightly different sized feet. Try to buy boots in the afternoon -throughout the day, gravity makes fluids pool in the feet, making them swell. The fit of boots that are the correct length, but have too much volume, can usually be improved by using thicker footbeds. Remember that just because a boot may be rated a 'best buy' in a magazine review, it doesn't necessarily mean that it will be the best boot for you personally. The boot may well be fantastic, but if it does not suit your foot shape, or fit you properly, it is bound to cause discomfort and disappointment.
Boot Grades
Torsional Rigidity: What keeps you upright on steep ground?
We know that boots flex across their width when we walk, but did you know that the midsole also flexs along its length? This is called torsional rigidity.
To explain this: hold your boot at toe and heal and try to twist it. A B3 boot should twist very little or not at all, a B1 boot will twist a reasonable amount.
Now imagine that you want to traverse a steep ground or cross an angled frozen snow slope. In a B1 boot you have a far greater chance of going over on your ankle when standing with your body weight on the inner/outer edges of your boots, whereas a B3 boot will give a far greater feeling of security.
A B2 boot will have a measure of torsional rigidity; and in general terms, it is the ideal type of boot for most conditions encountered when walking in the British hills. This will include winter conditions where you may have to deal with gentle snow slopes.
The potential for a fatal injury when wearing crampons is magnified if you do not match the Boot Grade with the Crampon Grade: do not be mislead by what some Gear Review gurus have to say in the walking magazines, our technical guide is based around what the manufacturers recommend. A B3 boot can be used with a C1, C2 and C3 crampon, a B2 boot is compatible with C1 and C2 crampons only and a B1 boot can only be used with C1 crampon.
Boot Grading: As the manufacturers explain it
B:0 (Walking Boots)
These boots are unsuitable for use with crampons.
B:1 (Hillwalking Boots)
Suitable for the easiest winter conditions. Flexible walking crampons with a strap attachment (Crampon Grade C1) can be used for limited periods or in emergencies, for example when crossing a patch of snow or ice, rather than for a full day's walk using crampons.
B:2 (Mountaineering Boots)
All boots within this range are compatible with articulated crampons with straps or a combination of strapped front and clip-on heel (Crampon Grade C2) for winter mountain walking or glacier traverses.
B:3 (Climbing & Mountaineering Boots)
These boots have fully stiffened soles and are compatible with articulated or fully rigid crampons with strap or clip-on systems (Crampon Grade C3).
Crampons
The introduction of lighter mountain boots and new types of crampons and bindings has brought to a head the difficulty many people have when choosing the correct combination of boots and crampons. It is vital for safety in the mountains that the correct footwear is chosen, particularly when used in snow and ice conditions.
Footwear manufacturer Contour have developed a grading system to help determine the correct boot/crampon combination. The grading System is based on a proposed System by Mountaineer and Mountain Guide Brian Hall. It should be stressed that this is only a guide and should be used as a supplement (not a substitute) for good advice from experienced shop staff, experienced mountaineers or mountain guides.
B0 Boots are unsuitable for crampons. Most walking boots are designed to flex for comfort and do not have sufficient lateral and longitudinal rigidity in their midsole. Additionally the upper is often made of soft calf leather or a combination of suede/fabric which compresses easily under crampon straps causing discomfort and cold feet.
B1 Boots are suitable for the easiest snow and ice conditions found when hill walking, using crampons more for emergency or for crossing a short patch of snow or ice, rather than setting initially fitted for a full days walk. They have a reasonably stiff flexing sole and the uppers provide enough ankle and foot support for traversing relatively steep slopes.
B2 Boots are a stiff flex boot with the equivalent of a three quarter or full shank midsole and a supportive upper made from high quality leather (probably over 3mm thick). These boots, designed for four season mountaineering, can be used all day with crampons, whilst easy alpine terrain and easy Scottish snow and ice climbs can also be covered.
B3 Boots are a technical mountaineering/climbing boot regarded as "rigid" both in midsole and upper. Used for mountaineering and ice climbing.
Compatible crampons are graded as follows:
C1 Crampons are a flexible walking crampon attached with straps, with or without front points.
C2 Crampons are articulated multi-purpose crampons with front points. Attached with straps all round or straps at the front (ideally with a French ring system) and clip-on heel.
C3 Crampons are articulated climbing or fully rigid technical crampons attached by full clip-on system of toe bar and heel clip.
Boots in the B3 category are ideal for C3 crampons and will also take C2 and C1. At the other end of the spectrum a B1 boot could only be recommended with a C1 crampon.
Caring For Your Boots
To keep your boots as supple and as waterproof as possible, treat them according to the manufacturers instructions or a Nikwax boot product. Make sure your boots are kept clean and, if they become wet, fill them with scrunched-up newspaper and place them away from direct heat to dry, then clean them as normal. Remember, boots are a long-term investment, so it will pay to look after them.
Modern boots will usually feel comfortable when new, but you should still wear them in before you undertake a major walk in them, so that the uppers soften and the boot moulds to your foot.
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